BMW 330i 325i E46 CCV Replace & Intake Removal DIY (Part 1) – See It Clearly! P0171 P0174 Repair

Frustrated with those other CCV replacement videos where they basically tell you to fish those tubes through the intake manifold blind? Well in my video I go ahead and remove the intake manifold, which lets you get access to replace a lot of vacuum lines and other components, and in doing so I give you a view of exactly how to fish the CCV tube through the manifold and connect it to the oil separator so that you can SEE what you need to do clearly, should you decide not to remove it.

In this video I work on my 2002 BMW 330i.

To see the video on how to remove all the usual suspects:

I also clean the throttle body and idle air control valve, which really gave me a boost in responsiveness, by the way.

In part 2 I will show you the various vacuum lines you can replace as well as the intake manifold gasket and I show you how to put everything back together. Look for that next week!

Silicone vacuum hose 3.5mm:

To get a set of the cold climate CCV components:

Which consists of:
11617533400 – oil separator
11617533398 – valve cover to separator tube
11617533399 – intake manifold to separator tube
11157532629 – oil dipstick drain tube
11617504536 – intake manifold return tube

To get a set of the standard CCV components:

Which consists of:
11617501566 – oil separator
11611432559 – valve cover to separator tube
11617504535 – intake manifold to separator tube
11157532649 – oil dipstick drain tube
11617504536 – intake manifold return tube

To get an Intake Manifold Gasket Set:

Subscribe to Channel:

This video by 50sKid was seen 760731 and liked: 5574 times

If you like this video, please support their channel by liking and subscribing.

Subscribe Here

Olive Oil Milling Machines Al-Sadoun

43 thoughts on “BMW 330i 325i E46 CCV Replace & Intake Removal DIY (Part 1) – See It Clearly! P0171 P0174 Repair

  1. Neodar says:

    Does anyone know how to tell the difference between a 2.5 and 3.0 intake manifold without taking it off to check the part number?

    My car has a 2.5 disa valve instead of a 3.0 one, but I don't know if someone also put a 2.5 manifold on, or just put a 2.5 disa valve in a 3.0 manifold.

  2. Forza says:

    Hi, when I removed the throttle body to clean it, as you did, I also manually moved the flap few times with my fingers in order to clean it more. Did I ruin the unit? Do I have to take the car to dealership to have it reprogrammed?

  3. Alfred Navarro says:

    Your video is very helpful. I did not remove the ignition cable the same way as you did. It was easier to disconnect from the control inbox. Also, I didn't realize how low quality the CCV connectors were. You would think by now there would be after market products that we're of a higher grade. That may be something for a young business enthusiast to look into.

  4. Raf D says:

    Wow, thank you sir!!! Your videos are the BEST! I love how you think and explain your thought process. I'm an engineer and I really appreciate your rigorous and detailed approach. You are making quite a difference in the world helping us to cope with the crazy BMW implementation of it's exotic engineering ideas (and vulnerable, inadequate plastic and rubber hoses, clips and seals!!!).

  5. Andy Nav says:

    I started mine yesterday, thanks to this video by 50skid. It's a 2004 X5 3i. Halfway there. One thing I noticed is that last 16mm one bolt holding down the manifold. There's none on mine. Is this manifold held by its weight on one side?

  6. Alexz32TT says:

    I follow all this steps and after put it back together i got a code P1353 misfire something went wrong in this i shouldn't take the fuel injector line out.
    Any suggestions.

  7. Jayviscouss says:

    I wat cuh Ed this video hoping for an explanation of what the hose from the Val cover going under the manifold is called mines broke and I’m having trouble finding what part it is

  8. Joachim Hanhart says:

    with small long hands, I managed to stick the two new hoses down as much as possible from above the intake. Then holding the CCV unit with the right hand near its final location, grabbing with the left hand the short tube from the left underneath the intake. Then give it a push.
    Secure the lower end of the straight tube with the right hand to its connection on the CCV, then give push on the upper end with your left hand. Fasten the CCV tight. Pretty easy.

  9. Yuha Vatnen says:

    That looks a bit of a nightmare. I once knew almost as much about Austin Minis a David Vizard (because I read his books). My bottom of the range Peugeot is complicated compared to an Austin Mini. I probably could afford a BMW with some of the jobs available to me. My life is complicated enough without a complicated car. I never was career minded. At 56 years it's a bit too late to think about mortgages. I'm just glad I survived a cycling accident and recovered (apparently) 30 years later. Thanks for uploading this – I often wondered how complicated BMWs etc were. I was brought up by a Victorian which may explain if I or my comment seem strange. Horses, carts and village pumps!!

  10. Ted Yont says:

    Nice video 50's kid! You seem to know your stuff (like using silicone spray instead of WD40 to soften old seals for reassembly) WD40 is petroleum based, not good for rubber. 10yrs MBZ and 10 years Volvo master tech. 14 BMW's, M54 is the last great BMW motor IMHO.

  11. S kabay says:

    Hi Jason. I’m in London UK and have blueish smoke coming out of the exhaust on acceleration issue. Car is 318ci e46 cabriolet 2005 model 130k miles.
    Motor runs sweet pulls well idle all good. Except oil leaking over exhaust manifold when running. I’m thinking the rocker cover gasket (top cover seal) is the possible culprit. But having thankfully stumbled onto your video – am I correct in thinking it is the ccv?!?. As I am very close to replacing the whole motor (thinking worst case it maybe piston ring issue). Because blueish smoke is what I believe to be escaping from the exhaust on acceleration. Except it runs great….
    Any advice would be soooo appreciated Sir?!!

  12. Brandon ata says:

    Do you know if there is anyway to swap the intake boot from a 325i to a 330ci? I believe the one on the 330 is a bit bigger but I need an intake boot from a 325i to make a CAI fit ..

  13. Roberto Ferrer says:

    I have a 2005 325i and I recently replaced the power steering pump, power steering pulley, water pump and thermostat and now it’s leaking coolant from under the intake manifold 🙁

  14. BIG AL says:

    For whatever reason I can't find a video that mentions this but something that helped me a lot while doing this is there's a bracket that holds the electrical box it's held on by two t25's if you take those out and remove that bracket you can see clean through the other side where you're putting the hose to the CCV valve it helped me a lot that way I wasn't guessing working blind and I also removed the power steering reservoir the two-13 bolts took them out push it to the side took off the bracket and it made everything so much easier (if your replacing CCV with manifold on)

  15. Tooirrelevant says:

    Hi question. I have a vacuum leak and I’m trying to figure out where the other end connects to. If you could help identify where if would appreciate it.
    The elbow that connects to the intake boot after the MAF, it’s the vacuum line underneath the bigger one on that elbow piece….):

  16. Eric Ryckman says:

    If you have a 1999-2000 323i with the m52tu, it has an m52 engine with an m54 head. It has 2 lines connected to the fuel rail instead of 1.

    For the love of god ?, mark or label them before disconnecting with the corresponding fuel rail connection. Otherwise, you can say goodbye to half a day, ?trying to trace those lines to find which is in and which is out. Good luck. I am taking my intake out for the second time. Gotta ❤ BMW ? Life in plastic, it's fantastic . . . Thanks for the invaluable content, as always.

  17. herrbrahms says:

    Having just reattached the fuel rail and injectors, I have some recommendations:

    First, you can pull the fuel rail with the injectors still attached if you leave the clips on. That way you don't risk contamination in the fuel system. If you want to replace injectors or the upper o rings, detach them at the bench.

    Also, don't bother detaching the fuel hose from the fuel rail. Instead, pull the other side of that hose off at the fuel filter output. It's under the car next to the left lower control arm bushing, and the access is loads better. You're going to have to pull your skid plate off for this job anyway most likely, since you'll drop things down on top of it that are hard to recover with a telescoping magnet.

    Pull the rail, injectors, and hose off as one connected piece. The hose attaches to two brackets between its ends. One goes to the intake manifold near the firewall. You can't see it from above, so detach that connection from below. There's also an attachment to the dipstick bracket. Reattach the fuel hose to both the manifold and the dipstick from below during reassembly.

    Some people say it's possible to leave the fuel rail on the manifold when you remove it, but I wouldn't do that for these reasons. The manifold is dirty and the fuel system needs to stay clean. You have to wrestle with the manifold and turn it all over to disassemble and reassemble the CCV system. Finally, the manifold to head nuts are a lot easier to access without dodging the fuel rail.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *