From Nursery Plant To Bonsai: The Olive Tree (pruning & repotting)


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In episode 03 of Mediterranean Bonsai we’re going within the mountain and we’re pruning and repotting an olive tree from nursery inventory that we can turn into in an excessively stunning bonsai.

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Olea is a genus of about 20 species within the circle of relatives Oleaceae, local to heat temperate and tropical areas of southern Europe, Africa, southern Asia and Australasia. They are evergreen bushes and shrubs, with small, reverse, complete leaves. The fruit is known as a drupe. There are actually masses of cultivars of olive tree. Much like apples, bushes with other fruit traits had been advanced over masses of years. The species could be very variable and no two tree ever appear to be fairly the similar.

Olea sylvestris, the wild-olive, has been thought to be through more than a few botanists a sound species and a subspecies of the cultivated olive tree, Olea europea, which is a tree of more than one origins that used to be domesticated, it now seems, at more than a few puts all through the fourth and 3rd millennia BCE, in choices drawn from various native populations. The wild-olive (Ancient Greek kotinos), which historical Greeks prominent from the cultivated olive tree, used to be used to style the olive wreath awarded victors on the historical Olympic video games. The historical and sacred wild-olive tree of Olympia stood close to the Temple of Zeus, patron of the video games.

Styles:
Formal upright, Informal Upright, Slanting, Cascade, Semi-cascade, Rock-over-root, Clasped-to-rock, Twin-trunk, Clump, Straight Line, Group planting, Saikei

Location:
outdoor

Position:
Full solar in summer time, much less in wintry weather. Requires 1000 Lux as an indoor plant. Leaves can face up to temperatures all the way down to 43F; the roots dislike freezing temperatures, even if survival at temperatures all the way down to 25F has been reported. Considered to be hardy in zone 9. The olive may also be effectively grown as an indoor plant, however it’s best to stay it outside in the summertime, and must be stored beneath 64F in wintry weather. To inspire fruiting, the plant must be stored for a number of weeks with nightly temperatures of 35F and day-to-day temperatures of 60F.

Watering:
Water totally, however stay somewhat dry. Reduce watering in wintry weather. The olive have the benefit of day-to-day misting.

Feeding:
Every two weeks from spring to autumn. Do now not fertilize for 3 months after repotting. Use liquid bonsai fertilizer or half-strength common objective plant Food. It can have the benefit of an addition of pulverized natural fertilizer in mid-spring.

Leaf and Branch Pruning:
Olive have a troublesome recognition when it come to department pruning. If pruning is performed all through spring and grown season. Resultant enlargement across the reduce may also be energetic. The best possible time to prune for tree form is all through fall. In younger bushes prune smaller again to the closing two or 3 whorls. Do now not prune if temperature fall beneath 10C. Stem pruning and pinching encourages smaller leaves and shorter internodes. With older bushes pinch when department continues to be green or is sort of violaceous getting rid of closing couple of leaves.

Re-potting & Growing Medium:
Repot each and every 2-3 years in spring, as buds sprout. Trim about 1/3 of the basis ball, and take away a proportional selection of the outdated leaves. If extra drastic root pruning is wanted, entire defoliation is suggested. Repot in free-draining, somewhat calciferous soil.

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7 thoughts on “From Nursery Plant To Bonsai: The Olive Tree (pruning & repotting)”

  1. Hope You Enjoy ! Please Don't Forget To Share, Like, Comment & Subscribe.
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  2. Θα ήθελα να προσθέσω ότι θα έπρεπε κατά την γνώμη μου να δεθεί η ρίζα με σύρμα από κατω για να σταθεροποιηθεί το φυτό και να αναπτυχθεί το ριζικό σύστημα σωστά,κατα τα άλλα έκανες ωραία μεταφύτευση και εβαλα like.θα ήθελα να μάθω που βρισκονται τα ωραία τοπία που δείχνεις.Ευχαριστω για τα ομορφα video του bonsai που μας παρουσιάζεις.

  3. Η εμπειρια μου 15 περιπου ετων παραμενοντας ομως αρχαριος λεει οτι στις Ελιες και στις Ulmus βάζοντας ποταμισιο χαλικι 70% ,20% αργυλώδες η κάποιο κόκκινο χαλικι μαζί με ελαφρόπετρα,και 10% τύρφη και ποτίζοντας + λιπαίνοντας αρκετά συχνά το δέντρο αναπτύσεται ΤΡΟΜΑΚΤΙΚΑ γρήγορα,αν βαλεις πολυ τύρφη η άλλο χώμα κινδυνεύεις απο μύκητες και νά χάσεις δέντρο χωρίς να το καταλάβεις,μιλάω αποκλειστικά για αυτά τα δύο είδη.Αν βρίσκονται σε μικρή γλαστρούλα η κοκκομετρία θα πρεπει να είναι 2-3mm.

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