How To Plant A Tree In Clay Soil & Hard Soil | Street Tree Planting


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John Valentino and Chip provide an explanation for step-by-step how you can plant a tree in laborious clay soil. Learn the most productive tactics to excavate, how you can get ready the rootball, how you can backfill, and while you will have to prune and stake your tree. Discover what explicit regulations John has to apply to insure a a success tree planting when hanging a tree alongside a town sidewalk and the way those regulations mean you can effectively plant your individual tree near to anyplace! Using the guidelines on this video in tandem with John & Bob’s sensible soil merchandise it is possible for you to to totally trade your soil and get ready a robust basis in your tree to develop. If you to find this video informative and need to be told extra about natural soil merchandise, then be sure that to take a look at our website (www.johnandbobs.com) and apply us on social media! #tree #claysoil #planting

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43 thoughts on “How To Plant A Tree In Clay Soil & Hard Soil | Street Tree Planting”

  1. i've learned something about the hardpan of caliche like material at my place is it acts like a impermeable layer starting at about a foot below the surface. and every time i plant something i instinctively want to create a wider deeper area of good material for whatever to grow in, so i'll build that hole like that. and when then rains come of even plain watering over a short time, you think the tree would be happy yet all i'm basically doing no matter how much around the tree i build "above grade" slope away from the plant, the depth of hole i created isn't difficult to overwater in any situation and essentially i've built a non draining pocket that will forever drive you nuts as your trees struggle only to eventually die a very short lived life to the undraining holes. so picture that as a layer and do not dig into the hard drainless pan, or at least you'd have to build a subdrain burrito style permeated, rock filled and wrapped well to carry the water away. which would be near commercial development for tract homes "impossibly difficult." so leave the hard pan and truck in some material to make a small mound or hill that you're going to plant on. forget the native or natural fall or slope to fix. add to it to make the depth the plant needs to grow for it's life. even if you dig a hole that hole will heal itself into the clay layer it's in, healing i mean the hard layer. a couple of seasons and it's going to turn right back into the layers around it. mulch it whatever you try will only be short lived because it's more powerful and bigger than us.. it'll never be fixed when you dig into it. even if you dug the entire plot out, 10'x10 or 100'x100' you basically crate an underground lake. that's the only hope, california high deserts are notorious for crap dirt. clay, rock. silt and sand deep usually all one or the other too much. it's just a lot cheaper and easier to move into the LA basin or san fernando. alfalfa grows well in it. without any problems. the little purple flowers in that grass (alfalfa) is delicious. you don't have to moo to like it. and it's nutritious as heck. high deserts aren't cheaper to live in. with the exremes heat and cold and wind and sun will more than equal what savings you have in cheaper mortgage. all the way around.

  2. Thank you so much for your time to make this video. My HOA made me remove a tree recently and replace it. I chose a Chinese Pistache and have very thick rocky soil(NW Las Vegas). This was extremely well done. 😊

  3. There are lot of amendments that can be confusing. What do you recommend for fruit trees to be planted in northern california? Also if soil has clay/rocks – do you throw them away? What kind of mulch you recommend? Thanks

  4. I also have rock hard clay and my method which works fantastically is to dig as deep as possible, at least 2ft and 2 or 3 times the width of the plant container. I add sand and compost to the point where its slightly softer than the native soil but not too soft so that water retention is about the same as the native clay but a little better. I drill 3or4 2" holes inside the holes.

  5. Hiyeeee 😊. Enjoy ur vids extremely bcuz u speak slow n precise to learners of ur trade.
    Anyway what did u add to the soil? Looked at ur website n dont see that big green bag of whatever u added to the soil. May i ask the name of it.
    I live in vegas n our climate is comparable to urs n our soil is as urs ours caliche “new word i learn about our soil”. Pandemic help open new courage in myself to care for my lawn, trees n shrubs. I understand it better with ur help n with my local nurseries n many youtube vids. I gravitate to u bcuz u explain ur knowledge to newbies easily n slowly as well as ur voice n speech is easy to grasp.
    Like i have commented on ur other vid – i plan to buy the i think maximize the all three blend to add to my lawn n trees care but ive got products i bought recently when i took on the responsibility for me to do n i also just planted a mimosa tree in April. So i have products on hand n garden tools i had to purchase to make “tinzs” happen lol.
    Thank u n chip for all u do for ppl like myself to go out n have courage. Blessings n peace 😊

  6. Uh oh, I live in Fresno and just had some trees planted in my front yard, including a Keith Davey, and there was no backfilling or settling done in preparation 😱

  7. By planting all male trees, I heard this is what led to such bad pollen issues. If we plant all female trees, there also aren’t any berries for non-native trees.

  8. If you can not afford to rent those machine to drill very deep clay soil , can you still plant your citrus fruit tree in a wide hole 3x bigger than your pot tree, another word plant it in a wide shallow clay soil hole that has good drainage? Can you mix 50% clay soil with 50% Kellogg organic garden soil and 10% of gypsum. Top it with dead leaf and mulch? Video Sound like you are the professional but what about tropical fruit tree like durian tree, plant the same way ( back fill clay soil)? Excellent video, Thank you for the education.

  9. You don't incorporate organic matter into the native clay soil, is there a reason.
    I use a lot of well composted manure and organic matter with the native soil, mixed up well, and that helps here, but I'm sure you have your reasons and have a lot of thoughts put into this, because you have hard pan soil.
    Okay I've watched more and I see why you do what you do, but where I am, it's very successful to incorporate organic matter, mixed well with the native soil and mound it at least slightly if the sight is challenging.
    I don't like the high mounds that some call mulch volcanoes, I think it's a bad idea.

    I like what you are doing there.

  10. I'm watching more and I agree with this corrective staking and I like to use only one sturdy stake to allow some wiggle and I will tape a piece of bamboo or something on to the areas that I want to help straighten when young.

  11. Hey, guess what. I am planting a locust tree tomorrow but I'm planting it in my heavy clay soil and guess which video was the first on the list? That's right, yours was the first. Your videos have helped me a immensely. Thank you again.

  12. My soil is so sticky, I can role it into a ball and it will bounce on the ground without breaking up. I'm planning on planting 12 fruit trees. I'm worried they will die.

  13. I have similar soil in NC and it’s very hard to dig with a shovel. I want a black walnut but am needing advice on how to successfully plant one already 5-6’ tall and not kill it. Drainage is awful too with hard clay and a bedrock layer 16” below the surface.
    Any advice?

  14. Should try the Ellen White method of planting. I modified it with my own version such as surrounding the upside down bucket with ag pipes with sock then two 3 inch pipes in each corner all the way to the bottom. It aerates the roots and can be used for deep root watering later in its life.

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